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Chủ Nhật, 5 tháng 7, 2015

At Melange Bistro and Wine Bar

At Melange Bistro and Wine Bar, a new restaurant on Main Street in Ann Arbor, co-owner John Janviriya said customers are ordering far more wine than expected, and thinks it's because of the 25-foot-long glass wine cellar that separates the dining room from the bar.


The wine cellar displays more than 2,000 bottles and is impossible to miss from almost any seat in the main dining room, but it wasn't designed to boost sales.

"It was meant to be a visual partition from the bar,'' Janviriya said.

While that may be an accident, Janviriya's distinctive Asian-influenced contemporary restaurant designs are capturing widespread attention. His most notable projects are: Mosaic in Greektown, Crave Lounge in Dearborn and Reserve Chicago, a nightclub in Chicago.

Ron Rea, partner of Ron and Roman Architects L.L.C. in Birmingham, is especially impressed with Mosaic.

"I think it's terrific, it's very professional, very well thought out, and I think it hits the mark for everything it sells,'' said Rea, who has designed restaurants for Kruse & Muer, Matt Prentice Restaurant Group and many others.

Melange, which has a cozy, warm feeling created by striped carpeting, zebra wood and lots of bamboo, opened in November.

Based on its first three months, Janviriya said, Melange is poised to achieve annual sales of $4 million to $5 million. Locally, that puts Melange in the big leagues.

Janviriya, 32, attended the College for Creative Studies in Detroit, where he studied art direction. He left in 1995 to open a Northville restaurant called Sizzling Sticks and shortly after that helped redesign the exterior of Sweet Lorraine's in Southfield.

Although he is not an architect, Janviriya markets himself as an interior designer and builder.

Janviriya is the owner of Northville-based Janviriya Design & Build Inc. and said that in 2006 he completed five main projects with a total value of about $10 million.

He is also part owner of Melange, Crave and Reserve, which have total 2007 projected sales of about $12 million.

At Melange, bamboo stalks line the stairwell that leads from the entrance into the basement level restaurant. Inside, Janviriya used Chinese bamboo to create a variety of partitions. Knee-high cushioned chairs fill a casual lounge near the bar.

"Pretty much, I bought a forest for this place,'' Janviriya said.

Melange is owned by Janviriya; Gerry Spears, president of Amvest Property Management Inc. in Ann Arbor; and two silent partners.

Janviriya said about $1 million was spent to renovate the building. Previously known as Bird of Paradise, Melange is underneath The Ark, a music hall.

Some of Janviriya's comfort with combining Asian design with other styles comes from his background. His mother is from Thailand, and his father is Irish.

At Mosaic, Janviriya designed a restaurant to match Mediterranean fusion cuisine.

Mosaic opened at 401 Monroe St. in mid-2005. Owned by sisters Athina, Maria and Stella Papas, the restaurant combines Mediterranean cuisine with Asian, French and South American dishes.

Its signature element is a copper and glass sculpture that hangs from the ceiling. For that sculpture, Janviriya turned to another rising force in Detroit's restaurant scene, Detroit-based Detroit Design Center (See "Center of design'' at left). The sculpture is 22 feet in diameter with 140 pieces of glass.

But it's Reserve Chicago, a nightclub/lounge with about $5 million in annual sales that has attracted the most attention.

Reserve opened in 2004 and is owned by Chicago-based Tsunami Capital L.L.C., in which Janviriya is a partner. Reserve also features sleek Asian design elements.

Former NBA star Dennis Rodman in his book, I Should be Dead by Now, recounts a night at Reserve when the music was a "wall of noise'' and the place was so crowded he doubted he could make it to the stage.

Janviriya currently is working on the design for Crescendo, a restaurant in Chicago on Ontario and Wells streets to open this spring also owned by Tsunami.

He also is the designer and part-owner of Black Pearl, an oyster bar planned for Fourth and Main streets in Ann Arbor. There, Janviriya is planning a two-floor, 3,000-square-foot restaurant with about 120 seats. Construction is scheduled to begin this spring.


* * *

Center of design

When restaurant designer John Janviriya takes on a project, he frequently turns to the Detroit Design Center for sculptures and other work.

Founded six years ago and operated by brothers Erik and Israel Nordin, Detroit-based Detroit Design Center's work is in many of metro Detroit's hippest new restaurants, nightclubs and loft condominium projects. A third brother, Chris, also co-founded the company, but now owns Dearborn-based Furnace Hot Glass Works L.L.C.

At Mosaic, the Nordins created a copper sculpture that is 22 feet in diameter and has 140 pieces of hand-blown glass.

Detroit Design's sculptures and designs can be found in restaurants and clubs across metro Detroit including: Vino Tecca, Royal Oak; Elysium Lounge, Detroit; Lush Lounge, Pontiac; and Mario's, Detroit.

Thứ Ba, 30 tháng 6, 2015

Battles Of The Heart


While her husband was reporting in Iraq, Ana MenA[c]ndez received a letter that sent her marriage into turmoil.

I no longer remember the exact date I received the letter. I only remember the month and the yearJune 2004and that my sister and her boyfriend had arrived that day to visit me in Istanbul. My parents were already in town, and that night we all went to dinner at Pano Wine Bar, a taverna that had recently reopened after being damaged the previous November in one of the bombings.

We returned to my apartment late, but wanting to take in the stunning views of the Bosporus, we gathered on my terrace for a nightcap. On his way in, my sister's boyfriend had handed me a FedEx package that had been propped against the door. As the others sat around the teak table drinking wine, I opened the package and absentmindedly started sorting through the mail, which had been forwarded from New York. Most of it was junk, but one piece caught my attention. It was a thin airmail envelope, and it was addressed to Mrs. Filkins, my husband's name, which I had never taken. A hidden part of me already knew what it contained. But I opened it anyway, and as the others laughed and teased one another, I read all about how my husband had a girlfriend in Iraq and how he had been unfaithful throughout our marriage. The writers, who identified themselves as "Max and Mira," were blunt: "Why can't the asshole keep his pants zipped?"

Nestled among the details of my husband's supposed infidelities were a few barbed comments directed at me and my career as a novelist. "So, first, congratulations on the book. Are you happy with the reviews? I only saw a few and thought they did not do justice to you," the letter offered by way of greeting. "I know you don't care about those things so I won't either." "Mira" then alluded to my first book, In Cuba I Was a German Shepherd : "By the way, Max heard that Queens College has a course on ethnic writers and that the prof is considering including German Shepherd, which is great, don't you think?"

I folded the letter, put it away, and joined the happy conversation. That night I lay awake on a foldout couch in my office. I don't think I cried. I was too stunned for that. There was a rare electrical storm, and I just watched it sweep across the city until it was morning.

My husband was in Iraq, covering the war for The New York Times. I was embarrassed that he hadn't come home for my family's visit. But by then my family had become as used to his absence as I had become to excusing it. He called the next morning, but I didn't mention the letter. I felt the need to tell him in person. I didn't tell my parents either. I come from a family where men who express their anger are respected; women who do the same are caricatured as hysterics. My coolness was my pride. So I buried all the feelings the letter stirred in me. The anger and sorrow. But also the guilt. Every marriage grows into the sum of its betrayals, and ours had survived its lot. Mixed with my fury at Dex for putting me in a position to even get such a letter was a sliver of uncomfortable self-knowledge, a reminder of my own selfishness and cruelty.

Dex and I met in 1991. I was still in college and had just started working as a clerk in an outlying bureau of The Miami Herald. He was a dashing courthouse reporter almost a decade older than I. It wasn't love at first sight. I thought him aloof and a little arrogant. But then one day we rode with two others to lunch, and as we sat in the backseat, I fell suddenly, and hard. It was like someone turning on all the lights at once.

I could not stop thinking about him. But he had a girlfriend, and I was engaged to my high school sweetheart. The wedding was less than a year away. And I was miserable. I saw Dex everywhere, felt his presence in the newsroom even when I couldn't see him, lived for the sound of his voice. In those years, faxes came in on one long roll of thermal paper, and I took to lovingly cutting and stapling those addressed to him before putting them in his box. It was a platonic love, unrequited as far as I knew, but the force of itmore than I had ever felt with anyonetormented me. A few months later, I broke off my engagement.

Almost the moment I stopped wearing my ring, word flew through that gossipy newsroom. A few days later, Dex called. Was I free for dinner?

From the beginning, we shared a love of writing. On our first date, he recited the last lines of The Great Gatsby. For Christmas, I gave him a collection of the great speeches of the twentieth century. He gave me a telescope: the moon and the stars.

He left for Baghdad, where he would stay for months at a time. In interviews, he took to calling it "home"

He was the most exciting man I had ever known: Oxford graduate, world traveler, erudite, and impossibly sexy. But the first fault lines were emerging: He could vanish for days into a story. Most nights, he came home past 9:00, exhausted and grumpy. I was strident and critical. And untrustworthy. Less than two years after we met, I had a brief affair with a colleague. I still don't know why I did itwhether out of fear for the intensity of my feelings for Dex or despair that his feelings might never match my own. Whatever the motivation, the affair left me sick with guilt. I confessed. Dex forgave me, and we went on a bike trip through the Loire River Valley. But I had introduced a cloud into our idyll. His quiet sadness on that trip still haunts me. I was ashamed of how much pain I had caused him, and how coldly I had inflicted it.

We married in 1995, and straightaway he moved us to California to take a job with the Los Angeles Times. I was upset that he didn't wait for me to line something up. But I went along, still feeling guilty, as if I had lost the right to assert myself into our story. The truth is, I had been raised in a sheltered, conservative household. Life with Dex was turning out to be a fearless, glorious adventure. And I was not going to miss any of it.

In the course of our marriage, we lived in India, trekked in Bhutan, and traveled through war zones in Kashmir, Sri Lanka, and Afghanistan. Early on, I quit journalism and went to grad school: A fiction career would better accommodate Dex's increasingly peripatetic life. On school breaks, I followed him to the wars. I thought I was happy. But in Afghanistan, at a public execution in 1998, all the differences we had buried came starkly to the surface. He wanted to get closer to the spectacle; I wanted to go home. That night, I cried in bed. Over the years, I had watched Dex spin ever farther from me, seen his gaze dim when I complained of my isolation. I could no longer ignore the distance.

I wanted outa normal life, a partner I could count on. But at the same time, I couldn't let go. And then, just when we had returned to the States and the promise of stability, war followed us home. Military jets woke us on the morning of September 11, 2001. We were living in Hoboken, New Jersey, across the river from the World Trade Center. We made love. And then Dex disappeared again into the story. First to lower Manhattan, then to Afghanistan. He returned every few weeks, but each time the space between us was greater, the circle of his interests ever narrowing into war and work.

Meanwhile, I was changing also, moving deeper into another life dictated by the writing that I was beginning to take more seriously. Yet, when The New York Times moved him to Istanbul a year later, I went along. Loyalty, yes. Also self-interest. I adored the city and knew it would be exciting to live there. And, of course, I kept hoping we could return to what we used to be. Then came our last war. For the first time, we argued bitterly about politics: He thought the Iraq invasion was a good idea. I thought it would be a disaster. He left for Baghdad, where he would stay for months at a time. In interviews, he took to calling it "home."

By then, our marriage was little more than a legal technicality. We didn't really live together, had few mutual friends, and shared little of each other's daily struggles. As the war dragged on, I remained alone in Istanbul in a magnificent apartment that didn't belong to me. I sat by the open windows for long hours, the silence so complete that I could hear the beating wings of the seagulls that flew past.

For years, I had been one of the boys, tagging along with Dex from war to war. But Iraq was different. Still, I struggled to put up a good face, denying problems to everyone else and especially to myself. Part of me just didn't want to face painful insights. Maybe that's why instead of confronting the issue of the letter's veracity, I became obsessed with who could have sent it.

The letter wasn't originalwomen had been getting such things for generations. Still, it was chilling, its malice nearly perfect. Except that the writer had allowed herself one vulnerability. Unable to resist the pleasure of knowing her punch had connected, "Mira" had included an E-mail address where I was instructed to write if I wanted more information. After mulling it over, I finally wrote something to the effect of: "Who are you and why are you doing this?" I never heard back.

As a wife, I was devastated by the letter. But as a writer, I was fascinated by the character behind it. From the beginning I suspected a single person, most likely a woman, had written it. What kind of person would go to these lengths? And why put a perfectly good scheme in peril by including an E-mail address that opened a small window of error?

On the day that Dex was to arrive, I cooked an elaborate dinner. Ms. Cool to the end, as if heartbreak were no match for individual cheesecake tarts. He came up the stairs, handsome and smiling. "My beautiful wife," he said, his first words of greeting. We ate out on the terrace, and afterward I got the letter and showed it to him. He was furious. He denied that he was having an affair. The anonymous writer, he said, was not motivated by the truth but by envy and a desire for revenge. Someone, he said, was out to get him. He immediately got on the computer and wrote back a blistering message that read something like: "I'm coming after you and God help you when I find you."

From the start, he suspected a female colleague at the Times with whom he had clashed in Baghdad. But he had no proof. He and I would sort out our problems later. But trying to unmask the writer would be our last act as a team. It was a predictable response for a pair of journalists who had labored for years to tamp down emotion and opinion in favor of cool fact.

We came up with a plan. There was an on-line service that, for a fee, could electronically tag a sent message. All the recipient had to do was open it, and we would get back a detailed report from the server he or she had used. I wrote to the address three times. Several weeks went by. Then one day, I checked my inbox to find that the E-mail had been traced to a Times server in Greece.

Only a few people had access to the server, among them a clutch of sports reporters there to cover the Olympics, a few writers, and Dex's suspect. The Times conducted its own investigationthey never publicly revealed the detailsand shortly afterward fired her. (She protested her innocence, challenged her dismissal in settlement talks with the Times, and reportedly passed two polygraph tests.) Did she write the letter? I'll never know, just as I'll never know if its claims were true. The writer and the credibility of her story will always remain a mystery. But they brought me, in their own way, to a more elusive truth.

There was a brief media uproar over the letter and the firing. Dex and I were firmly on the other side of the story now, and it was unnerving. On April 8, 2005, our troubles were the top item on a New York Daily News gossip column, just above the latest Pitt-Jolie revelation. A few days later, the Herald' s gossip columnist followed suit. When I complained, the Herald' s executive editor told me we were "public figures," and presumably fair game. Then, most tragically of all, the woman named in the letter as Dex's girlfriend was killed in an attack in Baghdad. Although he continued to deny any relationshipand still doeswhen he called me in New York to tell me, among my first reactions was pity for whatever he must be feeling. I still loved him enough to feel for him, even if she was, as he insisted, just a friend.

I had been working on a novel, set in Istanbul, about a burned-out war correspondent with a past: In Afghanistan he had been responsible for a boy's death. After I got the letter, I found I could no longer write. The real story kept crowding out the fictional one. Months went by. Then one night, I just started to write the story of the letter. I meant it as exorcism more than anythingI needed to get it out of my head so I could get back to work. But the more I wrote, the more I learned about miscommunication, complicity, and betrayal. I'd lived as if the only choice that mattered was between excitement and safety. If Dex was addicted to the thrill of war, I had been addicted to the thrill of Dex. His flawed ambitions were the mirror image of my own.

As the real details of my story gave way to the fictional demands of the novel, I understood that our marriage had been an attempt to write a heroic, outsize narrative for ourselves. As if the stuff of life were contained only in grand epics. But war without is nourished by the war within, and every great conflict begins as a collection of small, individual acts of cruelty.

My novel does not have a happy ending, and neither did our story. I filed for divorce in 2005, shortly before our tenth wedding anniversary. The blame, like our memories together, is something we will always share. For the next few years, though, we tried to return to what we had. We talked on the phone, traded E-mails. We continued to be each other's first reader and most trusted editor. I sent him funny anecdotes from the paper. He quoted Milan Kundera. Every few months we would talk about starting over. But something would always get in the way.

Last year, when I won a Fulbright to Egypt, I invited Dex to the orientation in Washington, D.C., to talk about what a new future for us might look like. We made plans. I wondered what it would be like to live in Cairo with him. I was, despite all our complicated history, optimistic. I still loved him. But at the last minute, Dex didn't show. Instead, he flew to Baghdad.

Part of me was incredulousafter all his pleading to be together, he vanishes at the last minute? But part of me knew it had always been like this and always would be: His need to be at the heart of the action would always take precedence. He assumed I'd always wait because I always had. But this time I was bowing out of the dance.

At the beginning of the wars, when Dex was away for weeks, The New York Times used to send me flowers with a note thanking me for my forbearance. By the end, I was fed up with the gesture, which reeked of cynicism. I sent a note to the foreign editor telling her as much.

I came across the note the other day. In it, I accuse the paper's editors of failing to grasp how Dex was headed on a terrifying path of self-destruction. I closed with a plea that the paper save him by refusing to send him back into the war zone.

I received a polite note in return. It was, the editor gently reminded me, my husband's decision to go in or not. She was right. It took me a few more years to understand. But I realize now that it wasn't Dex who needed saving.

Thứ Ba, 23 tháng 6, 2015

2 new houses

Two more groups of stalwarts are rushing in to address our desperate shortage of steakhouses. One is a case of West Coast coming east, the other of a well-established local beefing up its branches. Both Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in Edgewater, N.J., and Frankie & Johnnie's on West 37th Street have all the essentials and more.

Whether you prefer gazing across the Hudson at Manhattan or ruminating in actor John Drew Barrymore's library, you'll find that these newcomers spread a polished welcome mat for even the casually clad and take their plastic, too.


Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar (2 stars)

90 The Promenade

Edgewater, N.J.

(201) 313-9463

Wines: 190 choices, 125 by the glass

Noise Level: Lively

Price Range: $19-$34.95

Wine Markup: 100%-250%

Reservations: Recommended

Hours: Dinner, Mon.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m., Fri., 5-11 p.m., Sat., 4:30-11 p.m., Sun., 4-9 p.m.

Guests at fleming's prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar recently spotted owners of the River Palm Terrace restaurants, perhaps the state's most popular beef boites, fielding a tableful of tasters to scope out their new competitor. With the Strip House taking off in Livingston, the Garden State Steaks match is lighting up.

Located on the Hudson in Edgewater development The Promenade, Fleming's is the 19th in a national chain created by industry veterans Paul Fleming and Bill Allen in 1998. This is the first in the tristate area. The restaurant's approach is to be female friendly, and more friendly in general, than many of its prime peers. It also boasts more than 100 wines by the glass, which can be sampled in two-ounce flights.

Smiles start flying at the valet parkers (the service is $5), spread to four young women at the entrance podium, and extend not only to the waitstaff, but even to some of the sizable crew in the vast open kitchen sweeping one wall of Fleming's.

The warm interior features cherry-wood accents, alabaster chandeliers, well-spaced seating, and the splendid sunset glazing the glass walls of the city across the river. Bread and rolls are warm, too, something notable these days.

There are some vivacious new wrinkles among appetizers ($6.50 to $12.95). Five crisp rectangles of baked brie surround apple slices and a red jalape[currency]o pepper jelly. Rice noodles flank a modest handful of fried calamari in sweet chili sauce reminiscent of a stir-fry. My favorite is bruschetta layered with smoked salmon, cream cheese and sun-dried tomato relish. It's hard to account for sodden bread under otherwise pleasing "wicked Cajun barbecued shrimp.'' Spicy mustard sauce goes well on a salad of fresh vegetables served with seared ahi tuna.

Fleming's steaks, which are aged up to four weeks and come in 8- to 22-ounce sizes, are broiled at 1,600 degrees and finished with butter. The result is a lightly charred exterior sealing in the juices for knives to reveal. Both peppercorn and bearnaise sauces, available on request, are spicy.

Broiled veal chops and baked pork chops are high-rise and flavorful; a double breast of chicken is less compelling. Charred salmon filet lives up to its billing and is dark as pitch. A lusty swordfish steak competes fairly with the meats, even with its California salsa of mango, cilantro and red onions.

Cheese and robust seasonings resound through side dishes ($4.50 to $6.95). Creamed spinach is a virtual fondue of parmesan sauce. Even the hollandaise with broccoli or asparagus is spiked with heat and thick enough to stand a spoon in. Fleming's signature potatoes-about a pound of them-are scalloped and replete with cream, cheddar cheese and jalape[currency]os.

I wouldn't wait 20 minutes for not-very-molten chocolate cake, but warm berry cobbler and key lime pie are good. Not so was an overlooked request to delete pistachios from ice cream, a request by a patron with a peanut allergy. He spotted the lapse before digging in.

Otherwise, Fleming's service is abundant, professional and pleasant.

Frankie & Johnnie's (2 stars)

32 W. 37th St.

(212) 947-8940

Wines: 200 choices, 20 by the glass

Noise Level: Moderate

Price Range: $18-$42

Wine Markup: 150%-300%

Reservations: Recommended

Hours: Lunch, Mon.-Fri., noon-2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Mon.-Thurs., 4:30-10:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 4:30-11 p.m.

The latest frankie & johnnie's, in the former Barrymore townhouse, stages some of the city's most show-stopping steaks. In a recent poll by the Citysearch Web site, Frankie & Johnnie's was voted best steakhouse in Manhattan, and second only to Peter Luger in the city.

There are four F&J's-the original 1926 model upstairs on West 45th Street, offspring in Hoboken, N.J., and Rye, N.Y., and this one, formerly and variously known as the 37th Street Hideaway, The Hideaway and the Red Blazer Hideaway. Since several generations of the owning families are now running them, there may be more.

The one constant on 37th Street is Van Panopoulos, the dapper operating partner. This is his 40th year at the location, and he is as excited as a teenager about the quality of his food and hospitality. The kitchen and menu are bigger here, and there is more room for guests to relax, and wines to be stored.

Steakhouse tradition is observed in the raw bar shellfish, seafood cocktails and fresh salads. Among appetizers ($6 to $15), lobster bisque and French onion soup are givens. Smoked salmon, tuna tartare, filet mignon carpaccio and shrimp scampi are done with skill.

Some items soar. Lush, sweet crab cakes have fresh chives poking through a golden thatched roof of fried potatoes. Clams casino are both delicate and zesty, with a generous sprinkling of crunchy pancetta nuggets.

Other tried-and-true classics are saluted here, notably a surf-and-turf combination of an eight-inch filet mignon and a marvelous lobster tail of equal dimension. Drawn butter is served with the lobster, and Frankie & Johnnie's Steak Sauce with the beef.

The sauce is pretty mild stuff, and steaks here need no added seasoning. They are superb as is, grilled impeccably to order, crusty outside and bursting with juicy, rich, marbled goodness. The porterhouse is offered in portions for up to three people. Lamb, veal and pork chops are generous; lobsters range to five pounds; and there are salmon, scampi and sea bass dishes as well.

Don't overlook the pasta options. It's a rare steakhouse indeed that bothers to prepare risotto with porcini mushrooms.

As a first course, penne tossed with smoked chicken, diced asparagus and sun-dried tomatoes is a delightful choice en route to steak.

Greaseless cottage fries lead the eight potato variations, but some sides disappoint, and most desserts seem commercial.

Wine | Fleming's finds untapped market

Even though it was snowing, and evening rush-hour traffic on I-96 was moving at less than 30 mph, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar on Haggerty Road in Livonia was packed one night in February with those who had braved the elements.

The strong Wednesday-night showing was proof, according to executives present that night, that the Livonia area was craving a high-end steak house.

"I think there is always room for another great restaurant,'' Fleming's President Skip Fox said.

Fleming's opened its 8,000-square-foot Livonia restaurant Jan. 19, and plans to open a second at 323 N. Old Woodward Ave. in Birmingham March 30. Fox said Fleming's may eventually add a third location in the Detroit market.

While there are many new restaurants on Haggerty Road, Fleming's is the first high-end steak house in the area, said Peter Travis, the local operating partner of Fleming's Livonia restaurant.

"We just feel that we fill a niche that is not filled by anyone else in this community,'' Travis said.

In Birmingham the Fleming's scene will be different. There, Fleming's will face several nearby competitors. Fox said Fleming's will do well because Birmingham is a destination for fine dining and Fleming's is distinctive enough to separate itself from competitors.

"We've done our homework, we've done our research and we're confident we will do well,'' Fox said.

Fleming's national competitors include Capital Grille, Ruth's Chris and Morton's, and in Birmingham also will include Cameron's Steakhouse and Big Rock Chop House. Fleming's says it competes by offering a wider choice of nonsteak menu items, no smoking and brighter decor. Fleming's also offers 100 wines by the glass.

Fox said those features draw a wider range of patrons and helps Fleming's appeals to women as much as men.

Founded in 1997, Fleming's now has 47 restaurants across the nation and is owned by Tampa, Fla.-based OSI Restaurant Partners Inc., parent company of Outback Steakhouse.

"The Midwest is the area of our greatest growth for us,'' Fox said. "So you will see a lot of Fleming's in this part of the country in a short while.''

* Beer can be as sophisticated as wine, if not more so, according to Orion Township-based beer distributor Powers Distributing Co.

To prove its point, Powers took its management team and a few members of the local media to Kruse & Muer in Troy in February to experience firsthand the beer produced by Brooklyn Brewery and renowned brewmaster Garrett Oliver.

The New York City-based company produces six types of beer - not counting special and seasonal offerings - and claims to be among America's 40 top breweries.

wine


"The purpose of the dinner was to roll out the Brooklyn Brewery brands and it was for Powers management and the Kruse & Muer staff to witness a beer dinner presented by Garret Oliver,'' said Ron Runestad, business development manger for Powers' specialty beer division.

Powers began distributing Brooklyn Brewery's beer to more than 200 customers, including Kruse & Muer, in January. About 90 percent of Powers' customers are retail stores while about a dozen or so of Powers' customers are restaurants, Runestad said.

Oliver guided guests through a six-course dinner that began with a New England seafood cobbler paired with Brooklyn Lager, a refreshing amber-gold beer.

The fourth course was Brooklyn 1, a Belgium-inspired beer that is refermented in individual bottles similar to wine bottles and was paired with roasted sea bass.

This beer has a bubbly, almost champagne-like complexity but is heavier than champagne and comes with a full-bodied taste and 9 percent alcohol content, much higher than your standard American beer.

The meal ended with the brewery's Black Chocolate Stout paired with a German chocolate mousse dessert.

Runestad said that beer-tasting dinners have increasing in popularity in recent years. The growth is due both to the explosion over the past 10 to 15 years of craft breweries, and because the people have learned that the range and complexity of beer means that a complementary match can be found for almost any food.

Runestad hosts anywhere from three to 10 beer-tasting dinners a month.

* The Lark continues to prove that it is still at the top of Detroit's fine-dining scene.

Wine Enthusiast Magazine selected The Lark as one of 29 restaurants to receive its "Award of Ultimate Distinction.'' A photo and article about The Lark appears in the February issue of the magazine.

In business for more than 26 years, the West Bloomfield Township restaurant offers more than 1,200 wine selections.

And, in January, Hour Detroit magazine named The Lark its restaurant of the year, citing its longevity and quality.

"The Lark has ascended to the heights for several reasons: its top-notch food, expansive wine list and unerring attention to detail,'' the magazine reported.

* Two restaurants said last week that they have decided to cut trans fats out of all of their cooking, but both say that they were working on the change before an Oakland County commissioner and a state legislator introduced measures to mandate changes.

"I watched what New York was doing and figured it was coming this way,'' said Greg Miller, owner of Lodge Grill & Bar on Orchard Lake Road in Keego Harbor.

A nationwide battle over the use of trans fats got a hefty boost last year when New York City decided to mandate a ban in December.

Miller said he made the switch at his sports bar from oil with trans fats to a blend of canola and corn oil in its fryers and virgin olive oil for sauteing last month.

Even though the oil is twice as expensive, Miller said he didn't raise his prices.

"The fish and chips are crispier ... and we have a Monte Cristo that is 100 times better,'' Miller said. "Switching over to the trans-fat-free (oil) was relatively easy to do, and the turnout from it has been unbelievable.''

Last Wednesday Diamond Jim Brady's Bistro in Novi said it has eliminated all oils, margarines and shortenings, in addition to fried items that contain more than a half-gram of trans fats per serving.

Diamond Jim Brady's began working on the menu changes several months ago to make sure the change wouldn't affect the taste and flavor of its food, said Kristin Schenden Russell, president of Schenden Communications Inc. and publicist for the restaurant.

Manufacturers use trans fats because they stop food from turning rancid and improve its texture. But they also increase the amount of "bad'' cholesterol in the body and have been linked to a greater risk of coronary heart disease.

On Jan. 18 Oakland County Commissioner Marcia Gershenson introduced a resolution to ban trans fats in restaurants by December 2008. That resolution will be considered during a committee hearing on March 12.

State Rep. Lee Gonzales, D-Flint, also weighed in on the issue Jan. 31 when he introduced legislation to ban the use of trans fats in restaurants.

Wine bar | New arrival downtown offers wine bar

Despite the daunting challenges posed by timing and location, Perle, a lustrous new French restaurant on Pearl Street, may succeed thanks to value power, with recession-friendly pricing on its food and drink lineup.
Restaurant


Perle has two ways to play the hospitality game. Sharing a block with Fraunces Tavern, its first-floor cafe has a comfortably lived-in look, with bistro fittings of a pressed-tin ceiling, antique mirrors, and dark wood booths and wainscoting.

It fulfills its job description as "bistro moderne'' with a sizable wine bar downstairs. The contemporary decor features a glass-framed wine rack and blond wood chairs. Step farther into the subterranean space and discover The Boudoir in Perle, a cozy area with antique wallpaper, vintage-look furniture and retro lighting. Beyond that is yet another room for parties.

The main men in the Perle equation are owner Mario Carta, a native of Lorraine--which may explain the exceptional quality of Perle's quiche Lorraine--and chef Franck Hierholzer. Mr. Carta is a creator of clubs, bars and restaurants in both France and Manhattan. Chef Hierholzer's culinary creds are from star-studded kitchens in Paris and Miami.

The Financial District newcomer has quickly won an attractive young following. They arrive later than one might expect, starting slowly at 7 p.m. and reaching full-blast by 8:30 p.m. The wine bar is buzzing. A fine bar menu has just been added, with $3 and $4 prices for the likes of risotto with morels, foie gras, sliders and filet mignon (small!).

The dining room fare includes attractively prepared bistro classics, from escargots and onion soup to pan-seared foie gras in Armagnac-apple chutney. Appetizers ($6.50 to $15) include a hefty slice of that terrific quiche with a small salad, or other goodies such as grilled sea scallops teamed with pancetta, chives and olive oil; and grilled octopus with chickpeas and lemon confit. Tuna nioise features seared ahi tuna, and there is a fine tuna tartare--$13 at lunch--studded with capers and presented with a tasty tumble of lettuces.

Main courses offer the same bang for the buck. Delicious seafood dishes run from $14 to $18, and a grilled strip steak with frites and baby greens for $18. A crisp-skinned salmon steak with sliced chanterelles and pine nuts is $14 at lunchtime. At dinner, the salmon style is en papillotte, baked with mixed vegetables, herbs, wine and oil.

The mussels on offer are the standard mariniere with garlic, shallots, thyme and white wine; and aux epices in broth with coconut milk and spicy curry. Unfortunately, the only spiciness is on the menu.

Fresh tagliatelle ($17) with woodsy morels and a cognac flambe is a popular entree, but more reduction of the creamy sauce would make it cling better to the pasta.

There are other occasional lapses. The French onion soup cries out for greater depth of flavor, in both the bland cheese topping and the broth, which needs more browning of bones and caramelizing of onions.

Desserts are the usual savory suspects: profiteroles, creme brlee and a tarte Tatin thin enough to put in an envelope. It's served warm, topped with good pistachio ice cream.

Service is pleasant and accommodating, but on a recent Saturday, Mr. Carta had only one waiter on the floor at 1 p.m. He was soon overwhelmed by more than 30 guests. The owner says he learned his lesson, and the problem will not recur.

True to restaurant form, Perle has vigorously marked up some low-end wines, but most bumps are quite reasonable.

 
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